A How-To Guide on Photo composition tips

A How-To Guide on Photo composition tips

Photo composition is a huge, broad subject, with many differing opinions out there. There is of course no single ‘correct’ way to compose a photograph, and every photography situation merits a different approach. 

With that said, there are a few key concepts in photo composition that are worth getting your head around. These are tried-and-tested ways to compose a photo, and if you have at least a working knowledge of these ideas, you’ll find much more success in your compositions. We’ve put together this guide to help you start thinking about how to compose a good photograph.

 

Photo composition: Key concepts

We’re going to go through many of these concepts in more detail later in this guide, but in the meantime, here is a quick overview of the key concepts of composition.

  1. Choosing the focal point. The focal point of an image is its main subject. It’s the thing that’s in focus, the main subject of your picture – fundamentally, it’s what you’re taking a photo of. As such, the first thing to do in any composition is to select the focal point of your image. You can be specific here – in a portrait, for instance, the focal point is not just the model, but specifically their eyes staring at the camera. 

Remember that the focal point should be the main point of interest in the image, but it should also work in harmony with the rest of the elements in the scene. This is the real art of composition – and to get you thinking on compositional lines, here are some key concepts to keep in mind. 

  1. Rule of thirds. This is one of the first compositional tenets you’ll hear in photography. ‘Rule’ is arguably a bit of a misnomer, as using the rule of thirds certainly isn’t obligatory for every image, but it is a reliable and well-loved composition technique, 

This rule involves dividing the frame into thirds both horizontally and vertically, resulting in nine equal squares. The main subject of the photo is then placed along one of these lines, or at one of the points at which they intersect. This creates a balanced and aesthetically pleasing composition, with the main subject slightly off-centre.

  1. Leading lines. These are lines that help guide the viewer’s eye through the photo towards the main subject, creating a sense of depth and narrative in the image. Leading lines can be anything from a road or a path to a row of trees or buildings. It’s a good idea to train your eye to look for leading lines out in the world, and think about ways they can make your compositions more effective. 
  1. Framing. Finding natural ways to frame your subject within an image can create a sense of context and add interest. You can use naturally occurring objects such as tree branches or man-made structures like stone arches to frame a subject for greater visual impact.
  1. Balance. Creating balance in your composition can help create a feeling of harmony and stability. Balance can be achieved by placing objects of equal visual weight on opposite sides of the frame.
  1. Depth of field. By altering the aperture setting on your lens, you can change the depth of field of an image. The greater the depth of field, the more of the image is in focus. A shallow depth of field, achieved with a wide aperture setting, is great for isolating a subject from the background – it’s popular in portrait photography for this reason. Larger depth of field, achieved by stopping the lens down to a narrower aperture, is a good way to create a sense of depth and scale in an image, and is common in landscape photography.
  1. Symmetry. Symmetry can be a powerful compositional tool, creating a sense of balance and order. A good way to create symmetry is to look for reflections, whether in water, mirrors or glass. In a symmetrical composition, you’ll want your subject placed nice and centrally – though sometimes off-centre symmetry can be very visually striking. 
  1. Colour and contrast. Using contrasting colours or tones can help make your subject stand out, while looking for complementary colours can give an image a sense of harmony.

Remember that composition is subjective, and what works for one photo may not work for another. Experiment with different techniques and find what works best for your style and subject matter.

 

How to find the right angle for a photograph

A good way to vary and change your compositions is to experiment with different angles. Rather than simply holding your camera at head height, you can vary the angle from which you shoot for more interesting and creative results. Here are a few tips for finding the right angle for your images. 

  1. Change your perspective. This is a simple step to take, but it’s a good way to start thinking differently about your compositions. Try shooting from a high or low angle relative to your subject, or just from a different angle than you normally would. Examine how it affects the look of the image, and the elements you’re able to include that you wouldn’t be otherwise. 
  1. Consider the subject. Varying the angle of your image should have intentionality to it, and be done for a reason. You should choose an angle that will complement your subject. For example, if you’re shooting a portrait, shooting from eye level or slightly above will avoid unflattering distortions. If you’re shooting a flower, you may want to use a low-angle to produce an unusual perspective, or to get in the sun for a powerful backlight.

If you’re shooting a building, you may want to back off and shoot at a straight angle from a distance to capture the entire scene. Alternatively, you may want to get close and shoot upwards to convey an exaggerated sense of height. 

  1. Experiment with focal lengths. Using a different focal length – either by zooming in or out, or by changing lenses – can help you explore different angles. A wider lens can help capture more of the scene, while a longer lens can help isolate your subject.
  1. Move around. Don’t be afraid to move around when trying different angles. Walk around your subject. Crouch down, or stand on something to gain a higher perspective. You may look a bit silly, but that’s a time-honoured part of being a photographer – and it’s worth it if you bag that killer shot!

Remember that finding a good angle can take some experimentation and practice. Take your time when approaching a subject, and don’t be afraid to play around until you find the angle that works best for your composition.

 

How to use leading lines

As we’ve already discussed, leading lines are a powerful compositional tool that can help guide the viewer’s eye through an image and create a sense of depth and movement. Here are some tips for using leading lines effectively.

  1. Look for natural lines. The first step of using leading lines is always going to be finding them, so it’s a good idea to train your eye to look for them. Leading lines can be found in a variety of natural and man-made elements, such as roads, paths, rivers, bridges, trees and much more. Look for lines that draw the eye towards your subject.
  1. Place your subject strategically. When using leading lines, it’s important to place your subject strategically in the frame. The subject should be placed where the lines converge or at a point where the lines create a natural frame around it. The two need to be working together for a harmonious image.
  1. Pay attention to perspective. The perspective from which you shoot can greatly impact the effectiveness of leading lines. Think about everything we’ve discussed already regarding shooting angles – shooting from a low perspective can make lines appear longer and more dramatic, while taking a high angle can make lines appear shorter.
  1. Use diagonals. Diagonal lines can add energy and movement to an image. Placing your subject along a diagonal line can create a sense of tension and action.
  1. Experiment with different focal lengths. Different lenses can change the way leading lines appear in your image. A wide-angle lens can exaggerate lines and create a sense of depth, while a longer lens can compress the lines for a more subtle effect.
  1. Don’t overdo it. While leading lines can be a powerful tool, it’s important not to overuse them. Too many lines can create a cluttered and confusing image, and using lines too often can make your portfolio feel repetitive. Instead, choose one or two prominent lines to lead the viewer’s eye towards your subject, and remember that not every image needs leading lines in order to work.

In that vein, it’s important to remember that leading lines are just one tool in your compositional arsenal. Experiment with different techniques and find what works best for your style and subject matter.

 

How to use symmetry in photography

Symmetry can be a powerful composition tool in photography that can create visually pleasing and balanced images. Like all compositional techniques, it’s not something you’ll want to use every time, but when judiciously deployed, symmetry can be hugely effective.

Here are some tips on how to work with symmetry in photo compositions.

  1. Look for natural symmetry. Start by looking for naturally occurring symmetry in your environment. These might be reflections in water or glass, or they might be more intentionally designed forms of symmetry as commonly seen in architecture. Symmetry also commonly occurs in nature, even in something as small as the pattern of a leaf.
  1. Remember the rule of thirds. This might seem counter-intuitive – surely symmetry demands a central composition, with perfect balance? However, using the rule of thirds to off-set the line of symmetry along one of the vertical or horizontal thirds lines can result in a more interesting and dynamic image.
  1. Play with angles and perspectives. Just because there’s symmetry in an image, that doesn’t mean you have to shoot it dead-on. Changing your angle or perspective can alter the way symmetry appears in your image. Try shooting from a different height or angle to see how it affects the symmetry and the overall composition.
  1. Use a mirror. Mirrors are a simple and effective way to create symmetrical compositions. Mirrored windows can be a gift for creating interesting symmetrical compositions in street scenes. 
  1. Use editing tools. Itf you’re shooting out in the world, it’s likely that you won’t one hundred per cent nail the symmetry on your first try shooting an image. That’s okay! If you find that your symmetry is slightly off, you can use editing tools to correct it in post-processing. Many photo editing programs have features to help you achieve perfect symmetry, whether it’s straightening lines, cloning out distracting objects or correcting lens distortion.

Remember, symmetry is not the only way to create an interesting and balanced composition. It’s important to experiment with different composition techniques and find what works best for your subject and shooting situation.

The ultimate vlogging guide: Sony

The Ultimate Vlogging Guide | Sony

With a dedicated line of cameras built entirely around making vlogging easy, Sony is making no secret of courting the YouTube generation. Whether you want to shoot on a fixed-lens compact, a lightweight APS-C mirrorless camera or a pro-spec full-frame mirrorless model, Sony’s vlogging range has options for you. We’ve put together this guide to help you find the right one.

We’ve also looked at the best Sony vlogging lenses, for both APS-C and full-frame cameras, to help you put together your perfect vlogging setup. We’ve made sure to factor in price when making our picks, as we’re aware that many vloggers are operating on quite a tight budget. So, whether you’re starting fresh on a vlogging journey, or are looking to upgrade your kit to the next level, here’s all the best Sony kit to buy…

 

Best Sony vlogging cameras

Best Sony vlogging cameras
Best Sony vlogging cameras

While Sony’s various mirrorless and compact cameras have been popular with vloggers for a considerable amount of time, since 2020 the firm has been explicitly targeting this type of user with an entirely separate line of cameras. The ZV series – initially also known as the ZV Vlog cameras, though this naming convention has mostly been dropped – comprises a selection of compacts and mirrorless cameras specifically designed to appeal to vloggers.

The ZV cameras aren’t a radical departure from Sony’s previous cameras; the mirrorless models still use the E mount, so you’ve still got a huge selection of lenses to play with. They are more a refinement of the form, offering a suite of video options with useful features like built-in three-capsule microphones, real-time Eye AF and fully articulated LCD screens. 

Here are our picks for the Sony vlogging cameras to buy right now…

 

Best beginner vlogging camera: Sony ZV-1F

Sony ZV-1F
Sony ZV-1F

Key specs:

  • Compact camera
  • 20.1MP 1-inch sensor
  • 20mm (equivalent) f/2 lens
  • 4K 30p, Full HD 100/120p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, USB-C

The Sony ZV-1F is the cheapest member of the ZV family, and is the ideal platform for a beginner vlogger to learn the ropes. It’s a compact camera, meaning it has a fixed lens, and it pairs a 20.1MP 1-inch sensor with a 20mm equivalent f/2 lens, giving you a nice and wide perspective that’s ideal for general-purpose vlogging. It shoots 4K at 30p, and Full HD at up to 120p, which is pretty much what you’d expect for a camera at this price point.

The appeal of the ZV-1F lies in how easy it is to use. Sony’s obvious priority with this model is making vlogging as simple as possible, and there are tons of features designed to help you out while shooting. Sony’s peerless Eye Autofocus is one of the stars of the show here, able to doggedly lock focus on a person’s eyes while shooting and ensuring a human subject never drifts out of focus. Sony’s Face-detection and tracking is also second to none.

Slim but solidly built, the ZV-1F is a camera that’s easy to take everywhere with you. It’s the kind of camera you can just pull from your pocket and start recording within seconds. There are plenty of obvious, clearly labelled buttons on the body for activating different settings. Digital stabilisation is also available for shooting handheld on the move, though this will crop into your footage – it’d be better to use the camera with a gimbal if your budget allows. 

Though the ZV-1 II has a prime lens, you’ll notice a zoom rocker on the front. This activates a 5x digital zoom function, which while best used sparingly, will allow you to get a little closer to a subject when necessary. There’s a port for a mic as well, though the built-in mics do a pretty decent job. While the ZV-1F is quite a simple proposition, it’s a very effective and usable starter vlogging camera. 

Pros:

  • Easy to pick up and use
  • Good quality from 1-inch sensor and 20mm lens
  • Exceptional Eye AF and Face Detection
  • Digital stabilisation works well

Cons:

  • Digital zoom only
  • No built-in ND filter

 

Best vlogging camera with zoom lens: Sony ZV-1 II

Sony ZV-1 II
Sony ZV-1 II

Key specs:

  • Compact camera
  • 20MP 1-inch sensor
  • 18-50mm (equivalent) f/1.8-4.0 lens
  • 4K 30p, Full HD 100/120p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, USB-C

As you might expect from the name, the Sony ZV-1 II is the second iteration of the original ZV-1 camera – which was the first to arrive in the new vlogging line. According to Sony, the main piece of feedback that video shooters offered with regard to the first ZV-1 was that they wished its 24-70mm equivalent lens could go just a little wider. And lo, Sony waved its hand, and it was so – the Sony ZV-1 II is equipped with an 18-50mm equivalent lens, hitting a wider focal length that’s handy for general-purpose vlogging.

At that wide end, you can also take advantage of the f/1.8 maximum aperture for low-light shooting and working with shallow depth of field. This is great to have – just be aware that it does drop precipitously once you start to zoom in, reaching f/4 by the time you’re at 50mm. Elsewhere, this tiny camera makes for a superb vlogging companion – it’s barely the size of a pack of cards, and delivers video quality that’s a demonstrable step up from that of a smartphone. The three-capsule mic once again impresses, delivering audio quality good enough that you’re unlikely to want to increase the footprint of the tiny ZV-1 II by attaching a mic (though, of course, you can).

Elsewhere, Sony has also added an improved touchscreen that’s extremely intuitive to use. Autofocus algorithms have been tweaked for peak performance, and users can also take advantage of the Cinematic Vlog modes to create share-worthy clips straight out of camera.

Pros:

  • Useful wide-angle zoom lens
  • Great video and audio quality
  • Very slim, pocketable dimensions

Cons:

  • Max aperture drops at tele end of lens
  • Doesn’t zoom in as far as original ZV-1

 

Best mirrorless vlogging camera: Sony ZV-E10

Sony ZV-E10
Sony ZV-E10

Key specs:

  • Mirrorless camera
  • 24MP APS-C sensor
  • Sony E lens mount
  • 4K 30p, Full HD 120p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, 3.5mm headphone output, USB-C

Once the ZV compacts started arriving, it didn’t take long for vloggers to start wondering when we were going to get a mirrorless entry into the ZV series. That wish was handsomely granted with the ZV-E10 – a capable, lightweight mirrorless vlogging camera, essentially modelled on the Sony A6100 but stuffed with features designed to appeal to vloggers.

The addition of a vari-angle, freely moving LCD screen is a big one, making it much easier to flip the screen to face forward for self-taping without interfering with tripods, microphones or other accessories. Like all ZV cameras, the ZV-E10 also includes a built-in three-capsule microphone (and comes with a clip-on windshield accessory), significantly improving the quality of recorded audio. To bump it up still further, you can also use the 3.5mm port to attach an external mic. 

A lightweight and well-balanced camera, the ZV-E10 is well suited to one-handed use and balances nicely with E-mount lenses (see the bottom of this post for our recommendations of lenses to pair with it). Once again, Sony’s autofocus proves itself as one of the best systems in the business. Eye AF, as ever, is unerringly good, and the Face Detection acquits itself well. Video quality is consistently excellent, with 4K topping out at 30p, and we also like that the ZV-E10 provides the option to livestream. 

Well priced and simple to use, the Sony ZV-E10 is one of the best mid-range vlogging cameras around, and will suit anyone who wants the convenience of a ZV compact camera, but with the flexibility of interchangeable lenses.

Pros:

  • Lightweight and portable
  • Loads of E-mount lenses available
  • Excellent autofocus, as ever

Cons:

  • No built-in stabilisation

 

Best full-frame vlogging camera: Sony ZV-E1

Sony ZV-E1
Sony ZV-E1

Key specs:

  • Mirrorless camera
  • 12MP full-frame sensor
  • Sony FE lens mount
  • 4K 120p, Full HD 240p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, 3.5mm headphone output, USB-C

The Sony ZV-E1 was something of a surprise on release, and certainly sticks out in the ZV line-up – not least because it’s more than double the price of any of the other models in the series. It’s certainly going to be more than most casual vloggers need, but for those looking for a professional, fully equipped vlogging camera, the full-frame ZV-E1 will fit the bill exactly.

While it looks like a ZV camera – and bears the name – the ZV-E1 inherits a lot of its tech from Sony’s professional Alpha and cinema cameras. The 12MP full-frame back-side illuminated CMOS sensor is borrowed from the FX3 and A7S III, and given that the ZV-E1 also shares the BIONZ XR image processor, it follows that it’s just as much of a beast in low light. With an extended ISO ceiling of 409,600, the ZV-E1 can more or less turn night into day.

Video quality is all around excellent, with 4K available at up to 120p, and most modes supporting 10-bit colour sampling at 4:2:0 or 4:2:2. Sony’s flat Log profile is available for those who like to maximise dynamic range before colour grading their footage in post. However, if you want to speed things up a bit, we quite like S-Cinetone, a pre-graded profile that gives you good-looking footage straight out of camera. 

So, if the Sony ZV-E1 inherits the guts of pro cameras like the A7S III and FX3, and is a good deal cheaper, you might be wondering what has been cut out to make that possible? There are a few features missing – the first one you’d notice just from looking at the body is the lack of an electronic viewfinder; Sony is making the bet that vloggers won’t need it. There’s also no option to shoot RAW video, and the FX3 is more geared towards professional cinema use with a supplied handle equipped with XLR inputs. Again, Sony is betting that most vloggers won’t miss these features – and we think they might just be right.

Pros:

  • Superb low-light capabilities
  • Cine-quality features for a great price
  • Effective stabilisation and autofocus

Cons:

  • At the expensive end for vlogging cameras

 

Best Sony vlogging lenses

Best Sony vlogging lenses
Best Sony vlogging lenses

If you’re opting for a Sony mirrorless camera for vlogging, you’ll need to pick up a lens or two to go along with it. The Sony E-mount has a considerable advantage over mirrorless rivals like Canon and Nikon in that it has simply been around quite a bit longer, so there’s a lot of choice out there. Here are our picks of Sony vlogging lenses to get you started, whether you’re shooting on full-frame or APS-C. 

 

Sony E 11mm f/1.8

Sony E 11mm
Sony E 11mm

 This wide-angle lens for APS-C camera is specifically pitched towards vloggers. Delivering an equivalent focal length of 16.5mm due to the crop factor of APS-C sensors, this lens sits pretty much perfectly in the focal range for general-purpose vlogging and doing pieces to camera. Its wide f/1.8 maximum aperture also lets you make the most of available light and experiment with shallow depth of field. With two linear stepping motors, the autofocus is quick, efficient and virtually silent, and the lens delivers impressive edge-to-edge sharpness even when used wide open at f/1.8

Be aware that the lack of built-in stabilisation may be an issue if you pair the Sony E 11mm f/1.8 with a camera that also doesn’t have stabilisation, such as the ZV-E10. 

 

Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G

Sony FE 20mm
Sony FE 20mm

A full-frame prime delivering a wide field of view, the Sony FE 20mm f/1.8 G borrows its dual Linear XD motors from the premium G Master lens series (more on which further down), meaning it offers exceptionally fast focusing action. With a nine-bladed aperture, the FE 20mm f/1.8 G lets you make the most of its f/1.8 aperture for beautiful bokeh in the defocused areas of images. 

 

Sony FE 16-35mm f/4 G PZ

Sony FE 16-35mm
Sony FE 16-35mm

Power Zoom (PZ) lenses are specifically optimised for video. The term means that the zooming function of the lens is powered and controlled electronically by a series of linear motors, rather than by the operator physically turning the lens. This is particularly useful for video for a number of reasons – it allows for smooth zoom movements without the jerkiness often introduced by manual movements, and it means the zoom mechanism can be triggered remotely – great for vloggers who are operating solo. The Sony FE 16-35mm f/4 G PZ also offers built-in stabilisation, edge-to-edge quality and a moisture-resistant build, making it a terrific all-around zoom for vloggers on E-mount.

 

Sony E 10-20mm f/4 G PZ

Sony E 10-20mm
Sony E 10-20mm

This Power Zoom lens is built for Sony’s APS-C cameras – meaning it’s super-compact, and balances very well on smaller cameras. The Power Zoom mechanism itself is not just beautifully smooth, but also entirely internal, so the balance of the lens doesn’t change when it zooms in and out. Focusing action is reliably fast. The Sony E 10-20mm f/4 G PZ is also well-suited to outdoor shooting, with a dust- and moisture-resistant design. For travel vloggers, this lens is definitely worth picking up.

 

Sony FE 24mm f/1.4 G Master

Sony FE 24mm f1
Sony FE 24mm f1

For a premium vlogging lens to make the most of high-end cameras like the ZV-E1, you can’t go wrong with a G Master. These are Sony’s top-flight lenses, delivering optical brilliance in a robust, professional-standard body. The best bet for vloggers is the Sony FE 24mm f/1.4 G Master, a truly optically stunning lens that delivers a superb image from corner to corner. With an f/1.4 maximum aperture, it’s well equipped for low light, too.

 

 

 

 

 

All the images used in this blog post are courtesy of Sony.

The Ultimate Vlogging Guide | Fujifilm

The Ultimate Vlogging Guide | Fujifilm

If you want to start vlogging on Fujifilm kit, you’ve got an embarrassment of riches to choose from. While Fujifilm is generally more popular among photographers for its retro-styled cameras with dial-led controls, the X series offers a number of cameras that are also great for video, including multiple models that are specifically tailored to vloggers. This guide is here to help you find the right ones for you.

Fujifilm X-mount cameras all use APS-C sensors – smaller than full-frame, and significantly larger than the sensors found in smartphones. They tend to sit in the mid-range; there aren’t really any ultra-cheap beginner Fujifilm cameras, and there also aren’t any that cost as much as the top-tier flagships from the likes of Canon, Nikon or Sony. With that said, there’s plenty of variability in the series, so here we’ve nominated a range of excellent Fujifilm vlogging cameras and lenses for a range of budgets…

 

Best Fujifilm vlogging cameras

The Ultimate vlogging guide Fuji cameras
Best Fujifilm vlogging cameras

There are a fair few Fujifilm X-mount cameras, and many are tailored to quite specific purposes. For vlogging therefore, it pays to do a little research and make sure you get hold of one that’s going to give you all the features you need. Here are the Fujifilm X cameras we’d recommend for vlogging right now – including budget and second-hand options as well as the top-tier models. 

 

Best Fujifilm vlogging camera overall: Fujifilm X-S20

Best Fujifilm vlogging camera overall: Fujifilm X-S20
Fujifilm X-S20

Key specs:

  • Mirrorless camera
  • 26.1MP Fujifilm X-Trans IV APS-C sensor
  • Fujifilm X lens mount
  • 6.2K 30p, 4K 60p, Full HD 240p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, 3.5mm headphone output, USB-C

A long-awaited update that arrived in 2023, the Fujifilm X-S20 is unquestionably the best Fujifilm camera for vloggers right now. There are more affordable options available, and there are cameras with more advanced video features, but in terms of the balance it strikes between performance and price, as well as the range of video options it puts at the user’s fingertips, it’s the best you can buy.

The X-S20 has a simplified design compared to other Fujifilm cameras, with fewer of the distinctive dials that characterise the firm’s photo-focused offerings. This has helped keep the weight of the X-S20 down – at 490g, it’s not going to feel like a brick around your neck, and it’s generally a good camera for keeping out of the way. It has a fully articulating screen that flips around to the side, and a 3.5mm input for attaching a mic. All music to the vlogger’s ears.

Of course, all this was also true of the previous X-S10, which arrived in 2020. What marks the X-S20 out is its upgraded video capability. Whereas the previous camera could shoot 4K video, the X-S20 captures glorious 6.2K 30p video in 4:2:2 10-bit format, using the full, uncropped width of its sensor. There’s also the option to shoot in Fujifilm’s flat F-Log profile, and if you hook up an external recorder, the X-S20 can also output Apple ProRes RAW or Blackmagic RAW. This is an impressive suite of options for a camera at this price.

The main dial of the camera has a specific ‘Vlog’ setting, which activates a dedicated vlogging mode designed to put all the relevant key functions at the user’s fingertips. You’ll have immediate access to the stabilisation, the eye/face detection, high-speed recording, and specialist modes like ‘Product Priority’, which will make the autofocus prioritise objects held towards the camera. 

Pros:

  • High-end suite of video options
  • Impressive stabilisation
  • Improved battery life

Cons:

  • Not weather sealed

 

Best affordable Fujifilm vlogging camera: Fujifilm X-S10

Best affordable Fujifilm vlogging camera: Fujifilm X-S10
Fujifilm X-S10

Key specs:

  • Mirrorless camera
  • 26.1MP Fujifilm X-Trans IV APS-C sensor
  • Fujifilm X lens mount
  • 4K 30p, Full HD 240p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, USB-C

While this is the previous generation of Fujifilm’s vlogging camera, the X-S10 is still a highly capable mirrorless option for vloggers, especially if your budget doesn’t quite stretch to the X-S20. You’ll make a good three-figure saving if you opt for the X-S10, and it can be bought as part of a vlogger’s kit with a lens, miniature tripod, SD card and shotgun microphone. No one could argue with a setup like that for a prospective vlogger.

The X-S10 was one of the first Fujifilm cameras to offer built-in stabilisation, and while it isn’t up to the standards of subsequent systems (including the one on the X-S20), it still works pretty well and will make you much more mobile as a vlogger. Video quality is as excellent as you’d expect given that this camera shares its sensor with a bunch of other premium Fujifilm X cameras. The 4K 30p footage looks great – some vloggers might wish they had 4K 60p, but that’s the kind of sacrifice you make when buying a cheaper camera that’s a few years old. We suspect a lot of vloggers will be able to get by without it.

The X-S10 lets you plug in a mic, and also offers USB-C connectivity as well as a micro HDMI port. There’s also an option to adapt a pair of headphones to the USB-C port if desired for audio monitoring. One thing to note is that the body is not weather-sealed, so you will need to be careful in wet conditions. Though bear in mind that the X-S20 isn’t either (some users were surprised Fujifilm neglected to add this upgrade in the sequel). 

While the price hasn’t come down perhaps as much as you’d expect for a camera that’s three years old with an updated version also on the shelves, that’s a testament to the X-S10’s enduring popularity and how much Fujifilm got right with this design. It’s a terrific camera for vloggers (if you can live without 4K 60p).

Pros:

  • Excellent video quality from X-Trans sensor
  • Fully articulated screen and mic socket
  • In-body stabilisation

Cons:

  • No weather-sealing
  • Tops out at 4K 30p

 

Best second-hand Fujifilm vlogging camera: Fujifilm X-T200

Best second-hand Fujifilm vlogging camera: Fujifilm X-T200
Fujifilm X-T200

Key specs:

  • Mirrorless camera
  • 24MP APS-C sensor
  • Fujifilm X lens mount
  • 4K 30p, Full HD 120p
  • Ports: Micro HDMI, 3.5mm mic input, USB-C

The Fujifilm X-T200 is an entry-level mirrorless camera. It’s now discontinued, which is a shame as Fujifilm doesn’t have many cameras down the low end of the price scale, but the good news is that you can pick it up relatively cheaply on the second-hand market, and it makes for a solid starting point for vlogging.

The first X-T100 is even cheaper, but it was something of a misfire with a few key features missing, and for a vlogger, we’d say it’s definitely worth getting this upgraded version. The X-T200 can shoot 4K 30p video (it was 4K 15p on the X-T100), it has a large 3.5-inch 16:9 rear LCD display that’s high-resolution and fully articulating, and it even offers the ability to trim video clips in-camera. The X-T200 boasts a deep grip that feels secure and comfortable in the hand, and the autofocus offers Face and Eye detection modes. All good stuff.

This entry-level series is notable for using a standard 24.2MP APS-C CMOS sensor rather than the flagship X-Trans sensors that are featured in Fujifilm’s premium cameras – though it still does an excellent job, and at low-ish resolutions like these the differences aren’t going to be too pronounced. A feature you might miss more as a vlogger is optical stabilisation, which the X-T200 doesn’t have. There is a digital ‘gyroscope’ that’s supposed to help stabilise footage, though it doesn’t really hold a candle to a proper IBIS system – and in any case, it doesn’t work in 4K.

The X-T200 is a capable vlogging camera, if slightly limited. For the second-hand prices it’s currently commanding, it represents solid value for money, and makes for an enticing gateway drug for the X series. 

Pros:

  • Good value for money
  • Large, sharp, articulating rear screen
  • Lightweight and portable

Cons:

  • No optical stabilisation
  • Battery life not the best (though can be topped up via USB-C)

 

Best Fujifilm camera for videography: Fujifilm X-H2S

Best Fujifilm camera for videography: Fujifilm X-H2S
Fujifilm X-H2S

Key specs:

  • Mirrorless camera
  • 26MP X-Trans APS-C stacked sensor
  • Fujifilm X lens mount
  • 6.2K 30p, 4K 60p (120p with crop), Full HD 240p
  • Ports: HDMI, 3.5 mic inputs, 3.5 headphone output, USB-C

The Fujifilm X-H2S is the manufacturer’s most advanced video camera right now – as well as, frankly, possibly the most advanced APS-C cameras ever made. Equipped with a stacked and backside-illuminated 26MP APS-C sensor, it’s a true hybrid of a camera, capable of blistering photo speeds and sublime video quality.

Let’s get the spec out of the way – the Fujifilm X-H2S can capture 6.2K video at 30p, as well as 4K and Full HD at a variety of high frame rates, and it can do it all in 4:2:2 10-bit colour. The full-size HDMI port can be used to output Apple ProRes RAW or Blackmagic RAW, and there’s the option to shoot in Fujifilm’s flat F-Log profile for up to 14 stops of dynamic range. The X-H2S also has the must-have feature of cameras from the past few years – subject-detection autofocus that can automatically recognise and lock onto specific subjects like humans and animals. What’s more, this can be used in video recording mode. 

Video recording times have been a stumbling block for more than a few high-flying mirrorless cameras over the past few years – if a camera can’t go for more than 20 minutes without overheating, is it a tool fit for a professional? Fujifilm negotiates the X-H2S around this with an optional (sold separately) accessory, the FAN-001. Attaching to the back of the camera in the slot left vacant by the folded out LCD screen, the cooling fan allows you to keep recording for longer, even in high ambient temperatures. Is it a particularly sleek or stylish arrangement? No, it is not. But it works!

The Fujifilm X-H2S is one of the most expensive APS-C cameras ever made, and is probably out of budget for most vloggers. Unless you really need the features it’s offering, you don’t need to spend this much money. However, if you’re looking for the best Fujifilm video shooter money can currently buy, then here it is. 

Pros:

  • Superb high-resolution footage
  • Can extend recording times with use of fan accessory
  • Subject-detection autofocus works in video mode

Cons:

  • Expensive for APS-C

 

Best Fujifilm vlogging lenses

Best Fujifilm vlogging lenses
Best Fujifilm vlogging lenses

Though Fujifilm’s X cameras are truly excellent pieces of kit, there’s an argument to be made that the real strength of the system is in its lenses. Fujifilm’s X-mount lens system is not the most well-populated out there, but has gained a reputation for housing a stunning range of primes and zooms for all kinds of shooters. Fuji has a particularly strong line in producing lenses that produce fantastic bokeh at shallow depths of field, with lenses full of character and expression. Here are our picks for vloggers…

 

Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f4 R OIS WR

Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f4 R OIS WR
Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f4 R OIS WR

This capable zoom lens is an absolute standout. If you can only buy one lens for vlogging on Fujifilm, we’d say make it the Fujifilm XF 16-80mm f4 R OIS WR. Running an equivalent focal gamut from 24mm to 120mm, it’s a versatile zoom that will do an excellent job in just about any shooting situation. The optical stabilisation is class-leading, and the sophisticated optical construction delivers premium sharpness; field curvature and aberration are exceptionally well-controlled throughout the zoom range. Focusing is fast and near-silent, and the lens is pretty reasonably priced to boot. Not sure what to buy? Start here. 

 

Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f4 R OIS WR

Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f4 R OIS WR
Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f4 R OIS WR

The APS-C format of the X series means that genuinely wide lenses are in short supply, so this wide-angle zoom is definitely worth considering for vloggers. Intelligently designed with a sophisticated optical construction of 14 elements in 10 groups, the Fujifilm XF 10-24mm f4 R OIS WR produces terrific image quality with great control of aberration and distortion. It’s thoroughly weather resistant with a tough outer chassis, and also has effective built-in stabilisation for run-and-gun filming. 

 

Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f2.8 R LM WR

Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f2.8 R LM WR
Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f2.8 R LM WR

An enduringly popular lens among Fujifilm enthusiasts, the Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f2.8 R LM WR delivers a generous zoom range with a constant aperture of f/2.8 running right the way through it. This means you have real compositional flexibility even when the light gets low, and can achieve aesthetically pleasing shallow depth-of-field effects. Hardy and weatherproof, this is a solid choice of lens for travel vloggers. 

 

Fujifilm XF 33mm f1.4 R LM WR

Fujifilm XF 33mm f1.4 R LM WR
Fujifilm XF 33mm f1.4 R LM WR

A gorgeous, well-balanced prime lens, the Fujifilm XF 33mm f1.4 R LM WR produces a field of view roughly equivalent to that of a 50mm lens mounted onto a full-frame camera, and as such, it’s great for general-purpose vlogging where you want a naturalistic perspective. It’s a cut above the kinds of cheap nifty fifties that are commonly available for most systems, both in terms of its optical quality and its f/1.4 maximum aperture that gives you a little more latitude in low light. The bokeh is, of course, gorgeous – this is Fujifilm, after all.

 

 

 

All the images used in this blog post are courtesy of Fuji.

A How-To Guide for Different Genres of Photography

A How-To Guide for Different Genres of Photography

Photography is a highly varied discipline, and there are many different genres of shooting you may want to explore. Some photographers spend their entire careers only working in one genre, while others like to chop and change and try new things. However, before you embark on any new style of shooting, it’s important to get a handle on the basics – and that is what this guide is all about.

Here, we’ve provided a quick overview of some of the most popular genres of photography, as well as offering a few tips for getting started with each one. Tips for excelling in any one of these genres would fill a book by themselves – and indeed they have filled many books – but if you’re just looking for a few quick pointers to get started, here’s where you’ll find them.

So, let’s look a little closer at the main genres of photography, and the basics of each one…

 

Sports photography: the basics

Sports photography
Sports photography

Sports photography is definitely challenging. It’s the art of capturing action, of freezing split-second moments – but more than that, it’s about conveying the feeling of watching a sport through a still image. Sports photographers need to think about conveying the fluidity and motion of a game they are documenting, and about capturing the intense emotions felt by both players and supporters.

Here are a few tips for getting started with sports photography…

  1. Use a fast shutter speed. To freeze action, you need to use a fast shutter speed. Start with a shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second and adjust as needed. 
  1. Choose the right lens. A telephoto lens with a long focal length is ideal for sports photography, as it’s likely you’re going to be working at a considerable distance away from where your key subjects are. Using a telephoto lens with a reasonably long focal length will allow you to get close to the action and fill the frame with your subject. Focal lengths like 70-200mm and 100-400mm are very popular in sports photography. 
  1. Anticipate the action. Sports photography is all about capturing the decisive moment, and often that means you need to be thinking ahead. In a game of football, for instance, you may have more luck getting shots if you start trying to think about where the ball is going to be, rather than where it currently is. Get a feel for the momentum of the game, and you’ll find your hit-rate improves. 
  1. Use tracking AF. For fast-moving subjects, you’re best off using the continuous autofocus (AF-C) mode on your camera to track them as they move. This will help you keep the key people and objects in focus. 
  1. Look for interesting angles. Don’t just shoot from the sidelines. Look for interesting angles, such as finding a higher vantage point or getting down low to the ground. Move around during a game and experiment.
  1. Shoot in burst mode. Sports photography is all about capturing the moment, so shoot in burst mode to capture a series of shots. This will increase your chances of getting the perfect shot.
  1. Pay attention to the light. Sports events can take place in a variety of lighting conditions, so be prepared to adjust your camera settings accordingly. Use a wider aperture in low-light situations, and don’t be afraid to punch up your ISO if necessary. A grainy shot with some digital noise is better than no shot at all.
  1. Be aware of your surroundings. Sports events can be crowded and hectic, so be aware of your surroundings and be respectful of other photographers and spectators.

With practice and patience, you can capture great sports photos that tell a story and convey the excitement of the event.

 

Portrait photography: the basics

Whether you’re shooting portraits professionally or just for your own enjoyment, getting perfect people pictures can be a tremendously rewarding challenge. A good portrait isn’t just a picture of a person – it’s an image that conveys its subject’s personality, and as such, there are many things to think about beyond the simple act of pointing the camera at someone and pressing the shutter.

Portrait photography
Portrait photography

Here are some things to think about when it comes to portrait photography…

  1. Choose the right lens. A lens with a focal length of 50mm or longer is ideal for portrait photography, as it compresses a subject’s features in a way that’s more flattering than a wide-angle, and helps to throw out the background. On that note, a wide aperture (low f-number) can help create a shallow depth of field, meaning your subject pops vividly against an artfully blurred background.
  1. Find the right location. The location you choose can greatly impact the mood and style of your portrait. Consider the lighting, background, and overall atmosphere of the location, and think about how they relate to your subject. If your subject is a champion skateboarder, they will probably be suited to a different location than a prize-winning head chef, or a Fortune CEO.
  1. Start off with natural light. Portrait lighting is a big, complex subject. If you’re just starting out, rather than investing in flash units and LED panels, try getting your feet wet by shooting in natural light, as this can still result in beautiful, flattering portraits. Look for soft, diffused light, such as that found during the golden hour (the hour after sunrise or before sunset). Avoid harsh midday sunlight, which can create unflattering shadows.
  1. Choose the right camera settings. Shoot in aperture priority mode and use a wide aperture (low f-number) to create a blurred background. Use as low an ISO as possible to minimise noise and maintain image quality.
  1. Direct your subject. Good portrait photography requires good communication with your subject. Give clear directions on posing, expression and positioning. Make your subject feel comfortable and relaxed, and try to capture their personality and individuality.
  1. Edit your photos. Editing your photos can help enhance the overall look and feel of your portraits. Adjust the exposure, colour, and contrast to create a polished final product.

With practice and patience, you can create stunning portraits that capture the essence of your subject.

 

Landscape photography: the basics

Landscape photography is one of the most popular forms of photography, especially in the UK. A landscape is an enormously flexible thing, and can refer to an image of a forest, a beach, a rock formation, a lighthouse, a cityscape or any number of other fantastic subjects.

Landscape Photography
Landscape Photography

Once you get the landscape bug, you may find yourself hopelessly addicted to travelling the country to chase that perfect light in that perfect location! But before that happens, here are some tips to help you get started:

  1. Scout your location. Before heading out to shoot, do some research and scouting to find the best locations for the kind of landscape photography you want to shoot. Look for interesting features such as mountains, waterfalls or coastlines – and don’t forget about the city. Urban landscapes can be incredibly striking and unique.
  1. Get the right equipment. A sturdy tripod, a wide-angle lens, and a polarizing filter are essential for landscape photography. The tripod will keep your camera stable, the wide-angle lens will help you capture a wider field of view, and the polarizing filter will help reduce glare and increase colour saturation.
  1. Consider the time of day. The quality of light can make a big difference in landscape photography. Once again, you can definitely try to shoot during ‘golden hour’ which is the hour after sunrise or before sunset when the light is warm and soft – but don’t be restricted to just these times, as great images can be found at any time of day.
  1. Try the rule of thirds to start out. The rule of thirds is a composition technique that involves dividing the frame into thirds vertically and horizontally and placing the subject on one of the intersections. If you’re new to landscape photography, this can be a good way to get your brain thinking along compositionally creative lines, and avoid falling into the trap of just plonking every subject slap-bang in the middle of your shot.
  1. Experiment with depth of field. Depth of field can play a big role in landscape photography. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) to create a greater depth of field and keep more of the scene in focus. 
  1. Pay attention to foreground, middle ground, and background. A strong landscape photo will have elements of interest in the foreground, middle ground, and background. Look for interesting textures, patterns or leading lines to add depth and interest to your photos.
  1. Be patient and persistent. Landscape photography often requires waiting for the right conditions, such as the right light or weather. Be patient and persistent, and don’t be afraid to return to a location multiple times to capture the perfect shot.

Remember to have fun and experiment with different techniques and compositions in your landscape photography. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to capture stunning images of the natural world.

 

Street photography: the basics

Street photography is a popular genre that involves capturing candid, generally unposed images of people and scenes in public places. Pioneered by legendary photographers like Henri Cartier-Bresson and Vivian Maier, street photography is fundamentally about capturing moments. It requires quick reflexes, an observational eye, and a certain amount of bravery.

Street Photography
Street Photography

Here are some tips for getting started with street photography:

  1. Choose the right gear. Street photography is often fast-paced and unpredictable, so choose a camera and lens combination that is portable, easy to use, and allows you to shoot quickly. Many street photographers prefer small, lightweight mirrorless or rangefinder cameras with wide-angle lenses. Compacts can be a good bet, too.
  1. Find interesting locations. Look for busy public places such as markets, parks, and city streets with interesting architecture and backgrounds. Keep an eye out for interesting light and shadows that can add depth and texture to your images.
  1. Capture candid moments. Street photography is all about capturing candid, unposed moments that tell a story about the people and places you encounter. Be patient, observe your surroundings, and wait for interesting moments to unfold. It can be worth lingering in the same place for a while to allow yourself to blend in, rather than moving a lot and drawing attention to yourself.
  1. Be respectful. When photographing people in public places, be respectful and mindful of their privacy. Avoid taking photos of people who don’t want to be photographed, and always ask for permission if you plan to take a close-up portrait.
  1. Play with perspective. Experiment with different angles and perspectives to add interest and drama to your images. Try shooting from a low angle, or from above, or get close to your subject for a more intimate portrait.
  1. Edit with intention. When editing your street photos, focus on enhancing the mood and atmosphere of the image. Think about how contrast, shadows, and colour can come together to create a cohesive and compelling story. Make judicious use of the crop tool to remove extraneous elements for clean, clear images. 

Remember, street photography can be challenging, but also rewarding. Practise patience, observation, and experimentation to develop your own unique style and vision.

 

Macro photography: the basics

Macro photography is all about getting in close. It’s the art of capturing small objects, such as insects, flowers, and other details in nature, and rendering them larger than anyone would have seen them with their naked eye. When done well, macro photography can feel like a portal to another world, showing the viewer untold natural wonders.

Macro Photography
Macro Photography

Here are some tips for getting started with macro photography:

  1. Use the right gear. Macro photography requires specialised gear. A macro lens should have a magnification ratio that renders objects at life-size on the sensor plane – these are referred to as “true” macro lenses. Extension tubes can be an acceptable substitute if a macro lens is out of your budget. A tripod is also recommended to keep the camera steady.
  1. Find interesting subjects. Look for small subjects with interesting textures, colours, and shapes, such as flowers, insects, and other details in nature. Think about what kinds of things will look interesting when seen very close-up.
  1. Use a reasonably shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field (using a low f-stop number) can help isolate the subject and create a pleasing background blur. However, be careful not to make the depth of field too shallow or you may struggle to isolate the correct part of your subject within the narrow plane of focus. 
  1. Use manual focus. When shooting macro photography, autofocus can struggle to find the correct focus point. Using manual focus allows you to have more control and precision over your focus.
  1. Start by using natural light. Once you’re comfortable with macro shooting you can experiment with on- and off-camera lighting, but before you buy any new gear, get your feet wet by shooting with natural light, which can create beautiful and soft lighting for macro photography. Look for opportunities to shoot on cloudy days when the light is soft and diffused.

Macro photography is a technically challenging discipline, but the wonderful thing about digital photography is that you can make as many mistakes as you want to. Keep trying and practising and you’ll get the hang of the basics. 

 

How to travel with your camera

Travel photography is a little different to other genres, as it depends pretty substantially on where you’re going and what you intend to find there. Some people travel to capture landscapes, some people travel to cities for street shots, and some people love to photograph exotic wildlife. 

So, regardless of what you plan to shoot once you arrive at your destination, here are some tips for travelling safely with your camera…

Travel Photography
Travel Photography
  1. Choose the right bag. Invest in a camera bag that can protect your camera and lenses during travel. Look for a bag that has padding and adjustable compartments, and is constructed from weather-resistant material. It’s also important to choose a bag that is the right size for your gear and comfortable to carry.
  1. Pack your gear carefully. Make sure to pack your camera and lenses in the bag securely, using the internal dividers to wedge everything in securely. Use lens caps and camera body caps to protect the camera and lenses, and consider wrapping items in soft cloth for extra safety.
  1. Bring spare batteries and memory cards. Make sure to bring extra batteries and memory cards, especially if you plan to take a lot of photos. It’s also a good idea to back up your photos regularly to avoid losing them if your camera or memory card is lost or stolen – perhaps wirelessly transfer them to your phone for cloud storage at the end of each shooting day.
  1. Research local laws and customs. Different countries may have different laws and customs regarding photography, especially if people are involved – for instance, public photography laws in France are much more stringent than they are in the UK. Before travelling, research the local laws and customs to avoid any legal or cultural issues.
  1. Carry your camera with you everywhere. This might seem obvious, but it’s good to get in the habit of always carrying your camera when you’re travelling. Even if you’re just strolling into town for dinner, you never know when a photo opportunity might present itself. 
  1. Be mindful of your surroundings. When travelling, keep your camera and other gear close to you, and try not to be oblivious to your surroundings. Avoid leaving your camera unattended or in plain sight, especially in crowded areas.

Remember, travelling with your camera can be a great way to capture amazing photos and memories, but it’s important to take care. With the right preparation, you can enjoy your travels and capture amazing photos along the way.

How to use your camera: the basics

How to use your camera: the basics

How to use your camera: the basics

If you’re just starting out in photography, you’re going to want to learn how to use a digital camera. Learning to take control of settings like aperture, shutter speed, ISO and more is one of the most important first steps in learning to take photos properly, and it isn’t too difficult to do. This guide is here to help you get started.

Here, we’ve put together a series of quick guides to the most basic settings on a camera. If you’re not sure how to go about exposing an image – or even what exposure really means – then this is a perfect place to start. There are no stupid questions here, so feel free to drop in the comments if there’s anything you don’t understand.

How to set shutter speed on a camera

Light trails caused by longer shutter speeds
Light trails caused by longer shutter speeds

The shutter speed setting on a camera dictates the amount of time that the camera’s sensor is exposed to light. Longer shutter speeds allow more light to hit the sensor, allowing you to create a clear and balanced exposure when light levels are low. However, this extended time will mean that anything in the frame that moves will be rendered blurry. Also if you’re hand-holding the camera, the sharpness of the entire image may be compromised by camera-shake.  

Image stabilisation can help here, but for significantly extended shutter speeds, you’ll need to securely mount the camera on a tripod. Shorter shutter speeds are therefore useful when you’re hand-holding the camera, or when you want to freeze fast-moving action.

Here are the steps to set the shutter speed on most cameras:

  1. Select a shooting mode that allows you to change your shutter speed. Your best bet is Shutter Speed Priority (labelled as S or Tv), which allows the user to control shutter speed and automates all other settings. This may be on your camera’s top dial, or you may have to delve into the menus. Another option is Manual (M), in which all settings are dictated by the user, including shutter speed.
  1. Once shutter speed is selected, use the camera’s dial or arrow buttons to adjust the value. Shutter speed is measured in seconds and fractions of a second – 1/100sec, 1/500sec, 1sec, etc.
  1. Set the shutter speed to the desired value. A slower shutter speed will allow more light to enter the camera, while a faster shutter speed will let less light in. This will affect the exposure and the amount of motion blur in the image.
  1. If you are using the camera handheld, a general rule of thumb is that to keep your shots sharp, your shutter speed should be ‘1 / your lens’ focal length’. So if you’re using a 50mm lens, use a shutter speed of at least 1/50sec. If it’s 100mm, 1/100sec, and so on. If your camera and/or lens have built-in stabilisation you can push this a bit – the best way to figure out how much is to experiment with it.
  1. Check your camera’s exposure meter to make sure that your settings are giving you a proper exposure. If you are using shutter priority mode then your camera will automatically adjust the other settings to compensate; if you’re using manual, you’ll need to adjust them all yourself. Even in the former case, you’ll want to check your exposure is within tolerances – e.g. that you haven’t set a shutter speed so fast that the image is still underexposed even with other settings maxed out.

How to set aperture on a camera

Aperture Settings
Aperture Settings

When you adjust the aperture setting on your camera, what you’re actually doing is controlling the size of the opening in the lens. It’s measured in f-numbers, such as f/1.8 or f/11, and determines how much light reaches the camera’s sensor. The smaller the number, the wider the aperture, and therefore the more light is being let in.

Aperture speed has two main effects on your image. First, as mentioned it controls the amount of light that enters the camera, which affects the overall exposure. Having as wide an aperture as possible is hugely useful for shooting in low light. Second, it affects the depth of field, or the area of the image that appears in focus. A large aperture setting (such as f/1.8) creates a shallow depth of field, rendering the main subject sharp and the background out of focus. A narrow aperture setting (such as f/11) creates a larger depth of field with more of the image in focus.

One way that aperture differs from other settings is that it can in some cases be set on the lens, not just the camera. Some lenses offer aperture rings, which provide direct mechanical control of the opening; for many photographers, these provide a much more intuitive way of working with aperture. For this section, we’ll be assuming that you’re setting aperture on your camera, as many beginner lenses don’t have aperture rings.

Here’s how to set aperture on your camera:

  1. Choose your shooting mode. Aperture can be adjusted in Aperture Priority mode, commonly abbreviated as A or Av. In this mode, the user sets the aperture value, and the camera automates everything else (often you can set parameters, e.g. not to let shutter speed go below a certain value, or ISO above a certain value). Manual mode (M) allows the user to take control of all settings, including aperture.
  1. Decide on the desired effect: Your subject, creative vision and the level of available light, will all affect the aperture setting that’s best for your shot. For example, if you’re shooting a portrait, you may want to use a wide aperture setting to create a shallow depth of field and blur the background. If you’re shooting a landscape, you may want to use a narrow aperture to keep the entire scene in focus. If the scene is dark, you may simply need to use the widest aperture possible.
  1. Adjust the aperture speed. Use the command dial, the buttons or the aperture ring (if your lens has one) to adjust the aperture speed up or down in increments of 1/3 or 1/2 stops. Check using your camera’s metering system that you are getting a balanced exposure, and if you’re in Av mode, that your camera hasn’t raised the ISO too high, or set the shutter speed too slow or too fast for what you want to achieve.
  1. Take a test shot and review the results. Make sure that the exposure and depth of field are what you intended. If necessary, adjust the aperture speed further until you achieve the desired effect. Experiment with different aperture speeds to find the right balance of exposure and depth of field for your subject and creative vision.

How to set ISO on your camera

ISO settings
ISO settings

ISO is a system for measuring the sensitivity of a camera’s sensor to the available light. It forms the third part of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and shutter speed. The higher you set the ISO value on your camera, the more sensitive to light it will be. However, this increased sensitivity comes with a cost, as you also increase the level of noise in your images – the term ‘noise’ referring to digital artefacts and grain that can compromise image quality. As such, it is usually encouraged to keep your ISO level as low as the light conditions will allow.

ISO is expressed numerically – more or less all modern digital cameras will have ISO 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, and 3200, with 100 producing the cleanest images and 3200 being the most sensitive to light. Many will also offer settings lower and higher than this, with maximum settings like 25,600 or 51,200 being common. The ISO value doubles with every stop of exposure gained – so a jump between ISO 25,600 and ISO 51,200 is not as enormous as it sounds, it’s actually just a single stop of exposure. Some cameras also offer ​​Extended ISO settings at the upper or lower end of their ranges – these can be useful if there’s no other option, but will usually severely compromise image quality.

Here are the steps to adjust the ISO on most cameras:

  1. Turn on your camera and select the shooting mode you want to use. Any shooting mode except for Full Auto should allow you to set your ISO, so feel free to use whatever you prefer.
  1. Locate the ISO button or setting on your camera. On most cameras, this is represented by a symbol that looks like a circle with a dot in the middle. Some cameras have a dedicated ISO dial on the top plate – many Fujifilm cameras offer this.
  1. Use the dial, wheel or arrow buttons to adjust the ISO setting. You may need to press a button or navigate to a submenu to access higher ISO values. A higher ISO value will make the camera more sensitive to light, while a lower ISO value will make it less sensitive.
  1. Check your camera’s exposure meter to make sure that your settings are giving you a proper exposure. If the meter shows that your photo will be over or underexposed, adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.
  1. Many cameras offer range-limited auto ISO modes. These will automatically set the ISO value according to the input of the camera’s metering system, but never push it beyond a user-specified value, which is useful if you don’t want to have to keep fiddling with settings, but also don’t want the automated system to bump it too high and produce grainy images. This will likely be accessed through the same ISO menu.

How to adjust exposure compensation

Exposure compensation is a camera setting that allows you to adjust the brightness of your image. It’s typically represented by a +/- button or dial on your camera, and can be adjusted in increments of 1/3 or 1/2 stops. 

Photographers typically use exposure compensation in situations where they want to override their camera’s automated metering and make an image brighter or darker than the system recommends. There are many reasons you might want to do this – you may want to intentionally overexpose for an ultra-bright, dreamlike effect, or underexpose to accentuate a silhouette. 

Some scenes can also cause a camera’s metering system to think conditions are brighter or darker than they really are – snowy scenes, for instance, are often underexposed by automatic metering systems as the excess of white causes the camera to think they are brighter than they actually are. 

Here’s how to adjust exposure compensation:

  1. Choose your shooting mode. Exposure compensation can be adjusted in most shooting modes, including manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, and program mode.
  1. Locate the exposure compensation control on your camera. This may be a button or a dial depending on your make and model of camera. It is usually denoted by a ‘+/-’ symbol, so if in doubt, look for that.
  1. Press the button or turn the dial to adjust the exposure compensation in the desired direction. Each click of the dial typically represents a 1/3 or 1/2 stop change in exposure, and the setting will normally be denoted on the screen or in the electronic viewfinder as ‘+1’, ‘-1/3’, ‘+2/3’, etc.
  1. Check your results. After adjusting exposure compensation, take a test shot and check the results. If the image is still too bright or too dark, continue adjusting exposure compensation until you achieve the desired brightness.
  1. An important, often neglected step – once you have got your shot, remember to readjust exposure compensation back down to neutral. It’s one of the easiest settings to accidentally leave on, and it’s all too common for photographers to wonder why they are consistently getting overexposed images until they remember that their exposure compensation is still set to +1.

Remember that exposure compensation is just one tool for controlling exposure. It’s important to understand the basics of exposure and how aperture, shutter speed, and ISO work together to create a properly exposed image.

How to choose metering modes on a camera

Metering modes
Metering modes

The metering mode is a camera setting that determines how the camera measures the light in the scene to determine the appropriate exposure for the image. There are typically three metering modes available on most cameras: centre-weighted, spot, and evaluative/matrix. 

  1. Centre-weighted metering: This mode measures the light in the centre of the frame and applies greater weight to this area when calculating the exposure. This mode is useful for portraits, or any situation when the subject is in the centre of the frame.
  1. Spot metering: This mode measures the light in a small, specific area of the frame (usually in the center). This mode is useful when you want to expose for a specific part of the image, such as a person’s face.
  1. Evaluative/matrix metering: This mode measures the light in multiple areas of the frame and calculates an average exposure. This mode is useful for most situations, as it takes into account the entire scene and provides a balanced exposure. For street, documentary and general-purpose photography, this is a good, flexible metering mode to use.

When choosing a metering mode, consider the lighting conditions of the scene and the placement of the subject. For example, if the subject is backlit, spot metering may be necessary to properly expose for the subject’s face. If the lighting is even throughout the scene, evaluative/matrix metering may be sufficient. It’s also important to keep in mind that the metering mode is just a starting point, and you may need to adjust the exposure compensation or manually adjust the settings to get the desired exposure.

Ultimately, the choice of metering mode will depend on the specific situation and your creative vision for the image. Experiment with different modes and settings to find what works best for you.

How to set white balance on your camera

Setting white balance
Setting white balance

White balance is an important setting in photography that ensures the colours in your images are accurate and natural-looking. 

Different types of light produce different colour temperatures, measured in Kelvin (K), which denotes how warm (orange) or cool (blue) an image looks. A Kelvin number of around 5,000 is considered ‘neutral’ or natural – this is the kind of light you’d expect to see at around midday on a clear day. Some types of light produce a warm, orange cast, such as candlelight, sunrise/sunset or incandescent bulbs – these have a lower K value of around 1900 to 4000. Higher K values denote a cooler, blue colour cast, which is common on overcast, cloudy days.

By adjusting the white balance on your camera, you can ensure that image colours look consistently natural in different lighting situations.

Here’s how to set up white balance on your camera:

  1. Navigate to the white balance setting on your camera. This may be accessed via the menu system, or your camera body may have a button labelled ‘WB’ or similar.
  1. Choose a white balance setting. Most cameras have several white balance settings, including Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Tungsten, Fluorescent, and Custom. In most situations, the Auto setting will do a pretty good job of getting the balance right. However, if you are consistently getting an undesirable colour cast, try selecting the option that best matches the light conditions you are shooting in.
  1. If you want to get perfectly accurate colours, consider using a grey card. A grey card provides an accurate reference point for colour A grey card provides a completely neutral surface with no colour temperature or hue, meaning it can be used as a reference for colour temperature in any situation. Hold it in front of your subject and take a reference photo. You can now use this to calibrate your white balance – either in-camera using the ‘Custom’ setting, or in post-processing.
  1. To adjust the white balance in post-processing, you need to shoot in RAW format, as this allows you to completely alter the colour temperature and tint of an image as you see fit. Use the white balance tool in your photo editing software to adjust the colour temperature of your image. If you have a grey card reference image, you can use this to fine-tune your adjustments, then apply these settings to other images from the same shoot.
  1. Experiment with different settings. White balance is subjective and can vary depending on your personal preference and the mood you want to create in your image. Pay attention to the lighting conditions in your environment and adjust the white balance accordingly for the best results.

How to use burst mode

Burst mode (also known as continuous shooting mode) is a feature found on many cameras that allows you to take a series of photos in quick succession with a single press of the shutter button. 

It’s hugely useful for capturing images of fast-moving subjects such as wildlife or athletes, though can also be handy when taking group photos or portraits, as you may want to capture a variety of expressions and poses.

Here are the general steps of how to use burst mode:

  1. Set your camera to burst mode. How to do this will vary from camera to camera, but will usually involve selecting the burst mode option from the camera’s shooting mode menu.
  1. Frame your shot and prepare to take the first photo. If your subject is moving, try to think in advance about how you may need to move the camera to keep them in frame.
  1. Press and hold down the shutter button to start taking photos in rapid succession. The number of photos you can take will depend on your camera’s burst mode speed and buffer capacity. Some professional sports cameras have effectively unlimited buffer capacity, while others can only shoot in very short bursts.
  1. Review your photos. After taking a burst of photos, review them on your camera’s LCD screen to see which ones turned out the best. You can then delete the photos that you don’t want to keep. This is a useful habit to get into if you are spending a day firing off lots of bursts, as you can save time in the edit by getting rid of misframes and other useless photos as you go.
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