Tips & Tricks | Fixation

Abs Anees Tips & Tricks July 26, 2024 0 Comments

A How-To Guide for Different Genres of Photography

Photography is a highly varied discipline, and there are many different genres of shooting you may want to explore. Some photographers spend their entire careers only working in one genre, while others like to chop and change and try new things. However, before you embark on any new style of shooting, it’s important to get a handle on the basics – and that is what this guide is all about.

Here, we’ve provided a quick overview of some of the most popular genres of photography, as well as offering a few tips for getting started with each one. Tips for excelling in any one of these genres would fill a book by themselves – and indeed they have filled many books – but if you’re just looking for a few quick pointers to get started, here’s where you’ll find them.

So, let’s look a little closer at the main genres of photography, and the basics of each one…

Sports photography: the basics

Sports photography is definitely challenging. It’s the art of capturing action, of freezing split-second moments – but more than that, it’s about conveying the feeling of watching a sport through a still image. Sports photographers need to think about conveying the fluidity and motion of a game they are documenting, and about capturing the intense emotions felt by both players and supporters.

Here are a few tips for getting started with sports photography…

Use a fast shutter speed. To freeze action, you need to use a fast shutter speed. Start with a shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second and adjust as needed.

Choose the right lens. A telephoto lens with a long focal length is ideal for sports photography, as it’s likely you’re going to be working at a considerable distance away from where your key subjects are. Using a telephoto lens with a reasonably long focal length will allow you to get close to the action and fill the frame with your subject. Focal lengths like 70-200mm and 100-400mm are very popular in sports photography.

Anticipate the action. Sports photography is all about capturing the decisive moment, and often that means you need to be thinking ahead. In a game of football, for instance, you may have more luck getting shots if you start trying to think about where the ball is going to be, rather than where it currently is. Get a feel for the momentum of the game, and you’ll find your hit-rate improves.

Use tracking AF. For fast-moving subjects, you’re best off using the continuous autofocus (AF-C) mode on your camera to track them as they move. This will help you keep the key people and objects in focus.

Look for interesting angles. Don’t just shoot from the sidelines. Look for interesting angles, such as finding a higher vantage point or getting down low to the ground. Move around during a game and experiment.

Shoot in burst mode. Sports photography is all about capturing the moment, so shoot in burst mode to capture a series of shots. This will increase your chances of getting the perfect shot.

Pay attention to the light. Sports events can take place in a variety of lighting conditions, so be prepared to adjust your camera settings accordingly. Use a wider aperture in low-light situations, and don’t be afraid to punch up your ISO if necessary. A grainy shot with some digital noise is better than no shot at all.

Be aware of your surroundings. Sports events can be crowded and hectic, so be aware of your surroundings and be respectful of other photographers and spectators.

With practice and patience, you can capture great sports photos that tell a story and convey the excitement of the event.

Portrait photography: the basics

Whether you’re shooting portraits professionally or just for your own enjoyment, getting perfect people pictures can be a tremendously rewarding challenge. A good portrait isn’t just a picture of a person – it’s an image that conveys its subject’s personality, and as such, there are many things to think about beyond the simple act of pointing the camera at someone and pressing the shutter.

Here are some things to think about when it comes to portrait photography…

Choose the right lens. A lens with a focal length of 50mm or longer is ideal for portrait photography, as it compresses a subject’s features in a way that’s more flattering than a wide-angle, and helps to throw out the background. On that note, a wide aperture (low f-number) can help create a shallow depth of field, meaning your subject pops vividly against an artfully blurred background.

Find the right location. The location you choose can greatly impact the mood and style of your portrait. Consider the lighting, background, and overall atmosphere of the location, and think about how they relate to your subject. If your subject is a champion skateboarder, they will probably be suited to a different location than a prize-winning head chef, or a Fortune CEO.

Start off with natural light. Portrait lighting is a big, complex subject. If you’re just starting out, rather than investing in flash units and LED panels, try getting your feet wet by shooting in natural light, as this can still result in beautiful, flattering portraits. Look for soft, diffused light, such as that found during the golden hour (the hour after sunrise or before sunset). Avoid harsh midday sunlight, which can create unflattering shadows.

Choose the right camera settings. Shoot in aperture priority mode and use a wide aperture (low f-number) to create a blurred background. Use as low an ISO as possible to minimise noise and maintain image quality.

Direct your subject. Good portrait photography requires good communication with your subject. Give clear directions on posing, expression and positioning. Make your subject feel comfortable and relaxed, and try to capture their personality and individuality.

Edit your photos. Editing your photos can help enhance the overall look and feel of your portraits. Adjust the exposure, colour, and contrast to create a polished final product.

With practice and patience, you can create stunning portraits that capture the essence of your subject.

Landscape photography: the basics

Landscape photography is one of the most popular forms of photography, especially in the UK. A landscape is an enormously flexible thing, and can refer to an image of a forest, a beach, a rock formation, a lighthouse, a cityscape or any number of other fantastic subjects.

Once you get the landscape bug, you may find yourself hopelessly addicted to travelling the country to chase that perfect light in that perfect location! But before that happens, here are some tips to help you get started:

Scout your location. Before heading out to shoot, do some research and scouting to find the best locations for the kind of landscape photography you want to shoot. Look for interesting features such as mountains, waterfalls or coastlines – and don’t forget about the city. Urban landscapes can be incredibly striking and unique.

Get the right equipment. A sturdy tripod, a wide-angle lens, and a polarizing filter are essential for landscape photography. The tripod will keep your camera stable, the wide-angle lens will help you capture a wider field of view, and the polarizing filter will help reduce glare and increase colour saturation.

Consider the time of day. The quality of light can make a big difference in landscape photography. Once again, you can definitely try to shoot during ‘golden hour’ which is the hour after sunrise or before sunset when the light is warm and soft – but don’t be restricted to just these times, as great images can be found at any time of day.

Try the rule of thirds to start out. The rule of thirds is a composition technique that involves dividing the frame into thirds vertically and horizontally and placing the subject on one of the intersections. If you’re new to landscape photography, this can be a good way to get your brain thinking along compositionally creative lines, and avoid falling into the trap of just plonking every subject slap-bang in the middle of your shot.

Experiment with depth of field. Depth of field can play a big role in landscape photography. Use a smaller aperture (higher f-stop number) to create a greater depth of field and keep more of the scene in focus.

Pay attention to foreground, middle ground, and background. A strong landscape photo will have elements of interest in the foreground, middle ground, and background. Look for interesting textures, patterns or leading lines to add depth and interest to your photos.

Be patient and persistent. Landscape photography often requires waiting for the right conditions, such as the right light or weather. Be patient and persistent, and don’t be afraid to return to a location multiple times to capture the perfect shot.

Remember to have fun and experiment with different techniques and compositions in your landscape photography. With practice and patience, you’ll be able to capture stunning images of the natural world.

Street photography: the basics

Street photography is a popular genre that involves capturing candid, generally unposed images of people and scenes in public places. Pioneered by legendary photographers like Henri Cartier-Bresson and Vivian Maier, street photography is fundamentally about capturing moments. It requires quick reflexes, an observational eye, and a certain amount of bravery.

Here are some tips for getting started with street photography:

Choose the right gear. Street photography is often fast-paced and unpredictable, so choose a camera and lens combination that is portable, easy to use, and allows you to shoot quickly. Many street photographers prefer small, lightweight mirrorless or rangefinder cameras with wide-angle lenses. Compacts can be a good bet, too.

Find interesting locations. Look for busy public places such as markets, parks, and city streets with interesting architecture and backgrounds. Keep an eye out for interesting light and shadows that can add depth and texture to your images.

Capture candid moments. Street photography is all about capturing candid, unposed moments that tell a story about the people and places you encounter. Be patient, observe your surroundings, and wait for interesting moments to unfold. It can be worth lingering in the same place for a while to allow yourself to blend in, rather than moving a lot and drawing attention to yourself.

Be respectful. When photographing people in public places, be respectful and mindful of their privacy. Avoid taking photos of people who don’t want to be photographed, and always ask for permission if you plan to take a close-up portrait.

Play with perspective. Experiment with different angles and perspectives to add interest and drama to your images. Try shooting from a low angle, or from above, or get close to your subject for a more intimate portrait.

Edit with intention. When editing your street photos, focus on enhancing the mood and atmosphere of the image. Think about how contrast, shadows, and colour can come together to create a cohesive and compelling story. Make judicious use of the crop tool to remove extraneous elements for clean, clear images.

Remember, street photography can be challenging, but also rewarding. Practise patience, observation, and experimentation to develop your own unique style and vision.

Macro photography: the basics

Macro photography is all about getting in close. It’s the art of capturing small objects, such as insects, flowers, and other details in nature, and rendering them larger than anyone would have seen them with their naked eye. When done well, macro photography can feel like a portal to another world, showing the viewer untold natural wonders.

Here are some tips for getting started with macro photography:

Use the right gear. Macro photography requires specialised gear. A macro lens should have a magnification ratio that renders objects at life-size on the sensor plane – these are referred to as “true” macro lenses. Extension tubes can be an acceptable substitute if a macro lens is out of your budget. A tripod is also recommended to keep the camera steady.

Find interesting subjects. Look for small subjects with interesting textures, colours, and shapes, such as flowers, insects, and other details in nature. Think about what kinds of things will look interesting when seen very close-up.

Use a reasonably shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field (using a low f-stop number) can help isolate the subject and create a pleasing background blur. However, be careful not to make the depth of field too shallow or you may struggle to isolate the correct part of your subject within the narrow plane of focus.

Use manual focus. When shooting macro photography, autofocus can struggle to find the correct focus point. Using manual focus allows you to have more control and precision over your focus.

Start by using natural light. Once you’re comfortable with macro shooting you can experiment with on- and off-camera lighting, but before you buy any new gear, get your feet wet by shooting with natural light, which can create beautiful and soft lighting for macro photography. Look for opportunities to shoot on cloudy days when the light is soft and diffused.

Macro photography is a technically challenging discipline, but the wonderful thing about digital photography is that you can make as many mistakes as you want to. Keep trying and practising and you’ll get the hang of the basics.

How to travel with your camera

Travel photography is a little different to other genres, as it depends pretty substantially on where you’re going and what you intend to find there. Some people travel to capture landscapes, some people travel to cities for street shots, and some people love to photograph exotic wildlife.

So, regardless of what you plan to shoot once you arrive at your destination, here are some tips for travelling safely with your camera…

Choose the right bag. Invest in a camera bag that can protect your camera and lenses during travel. Look for a bag that has padding and adjustable compartments, and is constructed from weather-resistant material. It’s also important to choose a bag that is the right size for your gear and comfortable to carry.

Pack your gear carefully. Make sure to pack your camera and lenses in the bag securely, using the internal dividers to wedge everything in securely. Use lens caps and camera body caps to protect the camera and lenses, and consider wrapping items in soft cloth for extra safety.

Bring spare batteries and memory cards. Make sure to bring extra batteries and memory cards, especially if you plan to take a lot of photos. It’s also a good idea to back up your photos regularly to avoid losing them if your camera or memory card is lost or stolen – perhaps wirelessly transfer them to your phone for cloud storage at the end of each shooting day.

Research local laws and customs. Different countries may have different laws and customs regarding photography, especially if people are involved – for instance, public photography laws in France are much more stringent than they are in the UK. Before travelling, research the local laws and customs to avoid any legal or cultural issues.

Carry your camera with you everywhere. This might seem obvious, but it’s good to get in the habit of always carrying your camera when you’re travelling. Even if you’re just strolling into town for dinner, you never know when a photo opportunity might present itself.

Be mindful of your surroundings. When travelling, keep your camera and other gear close to you, and try not to be oblivious to your surroundings. Avoid leaving your camera unattended or in plain sight, especially in crowded areas.

Remember, travelling with your camera can be a great way to capture amazing photos and memories, but it’s important to take care. With the right preparation, you can enjoy your travels and capture amazing photos along the way.

Abs Anees Tips & Tricks July 5, 2024 0 Comments

How to use your camera: the basics

If you’re just starting out in photography, you’re going to want to learn how to use a digital camera. Learning to take control of settings like aperture, shutter speed, ISO and more is one of the most important first steps in learning to take photos properly, and it isn’t too difficult to do. This guide is here to help you get started.

Here, we’ve put together a series of quick guides to the most basic settings on a camera. If you’re not sure how to go about exposing an image – or even what exposure really means – then this is a perfect place to start. There are no stupid questions here, so feel free to drop in the comments if there’s anything you don’t understand.

How to set shutter speed on a camera

Light trails caused by longer shutter speeds

The shutter speed setting on a camera dictates the amount of time that the camera’s sensor is exposed to light. Longer shutter speeds allow more light to hit the sensor, allowing you to create a clear and balanced exposure when light levels are low. However, this extended time will mean that anything in the frame that moves will be rendered blurry. Also if you’re hand-holding the camera, the sharpness of the entire image may be compromised by camera-shake.

Image stabilisation can help here, but for significantly extended shutter speeds, you’ll need to securely mount the camera on a tripod. Shorter shutter speeds are therefore useful when you’re hand-holding the camera, or when you want to freeze fast-moving action.

Here are the steps to set the shutter speed on most cameras:

Select a shooting mode that allows you to change your shutter speed. Your best bet is Shutter Speed Priority (labelled as S or Tv), which allows the user to control shutter speed and automates all other settings. This may be on your camera’s top dial, or you may have to delve into the menus. Another option is Manual (M), in which all settings are dictated by the user, including shutter speed.

Once shutter speed is selected, use the camera’s dial or arrow buttons to adjust the value. Shutter speed is measured in seconds and fractions of a second – 1/100sec, 1/500sec, 1sec, etc.

Set the shutter speed to the desired value. A slower shutter speed will allow more light to enter the camera, while a faster shutter speed will let less light in. This will affect the exposure and the amount of motion blur in the image.

If you are using the camera handheld, a general rule of thumb is that to keep your shots sharp, your shutter speed should be ‘1 / your lens’ focal length’. So if you’re using a 50mm lens, use a shutter speed of at least 1/50sec. If it’s 100mm, 1/100sec, and so on. If your camera and/or lens have built-in stabilisation you can push this a bit – the best way to figure out how much is to experiment with it.

Check your camera’s exposure meter to make sure that your settings are giving you a proper exposure. If you are using shutter priority mode then your camera will automatically adjust the other settings to compensate; if you’re using manual, you’ll need to adjust them all yourself. Even in the former case, you’ll want to check your exposure is within tolerances – e.g. that you haven’t set a shutter speed so fast that the image is still underexposed even with other settings maxed out.

How to set aperture on a camera

When you adjust the aperture setting on your camera, what you’re actually doing is controlling the size of the opening in the lens. It’s measured in f-numbers, such as f/1.8 or f/11, and determines how much light reaches the camera’s sensor. The smaller the number, the wider the aperture, and therefore the more light is being let in.

Aperture speed has two main effects on your image. First, as mentioned it controls the amount of light that enters the camera, which affects the overall exposure. Having as wide an aperture as possible is hugely useful for shooting in low light. Second, it affects the depth of field, or the area of the image that appears in focus. A large aperture setting (such as f/1.8) creates a shallow depth of field, rendering the main subject sharp and the background out of focus. A narrow aperture setting (such as f/11) creates a larger depth of field with more of the image in focus.

One way that aperture differs from other settings is that it can in some cases be set on the lens, not just the camera. Some lenses offer aperture rings, which provide direct mechanical control of the opening; for many photographers, these provide a much more intuitive way of working with aperture. For this section, we’ll be assuming that you’re setting aperture on your camera, as many beginner lenses don’t have aperture rings.

Here’s how to set aperture on your camera:

Choose your shooting mode. Aperture can be adjusted in Aperture Priority mode, commonly abbreviated as A or Av. In this mode, the user sets the aperture value, and the camera automates everything else (often you can set parameters, e.g. not to let shutter speed go below a certain value, or ISO above a certain value). Manual mode (M) allows the user to take control of all settings, including aperture.

Decide on the desired effect: Your subject, creative vision and the level of available light, will all affect the aperture setting that’s best for your shot. For example, if you’re shooting a portrait, you may want to use a wide aperture setting to create a shallow depth of field and blur the background. If you’re shooting a landscape, you may want to use a narrow aperture to keep the entire scene in focus. If the scene is dark, you may simply need to use the widest aperture possible.

Adjust the aperture speed. Use the command dial, the buttons or the aperture ring (if your lens has one) to adjust the aperture speed up or down in increments of 1/3 or 1/2 stops. Check using your camera’s metering system that you are getting a balanced exposure, and if you’re in Av mode, that your camera hasn’t raised the ISO too high, or set the shutter speed too slow or too fast for what you want to achieve.

Take a test shot and review the results. Make sure that the exposure and depth of field are what you intended. If necessary, adjust the aperture speed further until you achieve the desired effect. Experiment with different aperture speeds to find the right balance of exposure and depth of field for your subject and creative vision.

How to set ISO on your camera

ISO is a system for measuring the sensitivity of a camera’s sensor to the available light. It forms the third part of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and shutter speed. The higher you set the ISO value on your camera, the more sensitive to light it will be. However, this increased sensitivity comes with a cost, as you also increase the level of noise in your images – the term ‘noise’ referring to digital artefacts and grain that can compromise image quality. As such, it is usually encouraged to keep your ISO level as low as the light conditions will allow.

ISO is expressed numerically – more or less all modern digital cameras will have ISO 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, and 3200, with 100 producing the cleanest images and 3200 being the most sensitive to light. Many will also offer settings lower and higher than this, with maximum settings like 25,600 or 51,200 being common. The ISO value doubles with every stop of exposure gained – so a jump between ISO 25,600 and ISO 51,200 is not as enormous as it sounds, it’s actually just a single stop of exposure. Some cameras also offer Extended ISO settings at the upper or lower end of their ranges – these can be useful if there’s no other option, but will usually severely compromise image quality.

Here are the steps to adjust the ISO on most cameras:

Turn on your camera and select the shooting mode you want to use. Any shooting mode except for Full Auto should allow you to set your ISO, so feel free to use whatever you prefer.

Locate the ISO button or setting on your camera. On most cameras, this is represented by a symbol that looks like a circle with a dot in the middle. Some cameras have a dedicated ISO dial on the top plate – many Fujifilm cameras offer this.

Use the dial, wheel or arrow buttons to adjust the ISO setting. You may need to press a button or navigate to a submenu to access higher ISO values. A higher ISO value will make the camera more sensitive to light, while a lower ISO value will make it less sensitive.

Check your camera’s exposure meter to make sure that your settings are giving you a proper exposure. If the meter shows that your photo will be over or underexposed, adjust the aperture or shutter speed accordingly.

Many cameras offer range-limited auto ISO modes. These will automatically set the ISO value according to the input of the camera’s metering system, but never push it beyond a user-specified value, which is useful if you don’t want to have to keep fiddling with settings, but also don’t want the automated system to bump it too high and produce grainy images. This will likely be accessed through the same ISO menu.

How to adjust exposure compensation

Exposure compensation is a camera setting that allows you to adjust the brightness of your image. It’s typically represented by a +/- button or dial on your camera, and can be adjusted in increments of 1/3 or 1/2 stops.

Photographers typically use exposure compensation in situations where they want to override their camera’s automated metering and make an image brighter or darker than the system recommends. There are many reasons you might want to do this – you may want to intentionally overexpose for an ultra-bright, dreamlike effect, or underexpose to accentuate a silhouette.

Some scenes can also cause a camera’s metering system to think conditions are brighter or darker than they really are – snowy scenes, for instance, are often underexposed by automatic metering systems as the excess of white causes the camera to think they are brighter than they actually are.

Here’s how to adjust exposure compensation:

Choose your shooting mode. Exposure compensation can be adjusted in most shooting modes, including manual, aperture priority, shutter priority, and program mode.

Locate the exposure compensation control on your camera. This may be a button or a dial depending on your make and model of camera. It is usually denoted by a ‘+/-’ symbol, so if in doubt, look for that.

Press the button or turn the dial to adjust the exposure compensation in the desired direction. Each click of the dial typically represents a 1/3 or 1/2 stop change in exposure, and the setting will normally be denoted on the screen or in the electronic viewfinder as ‘+1’, ‘-1/3’, ‘+2/3’, etc.

Check your results. After adjusting exposure compensation, take a test shot and check the results. If the image is still too bright or too dark, continue adjusting exposure compensation until you achieve the desired brightness.

An important, often neglected step – once you have got your shot, remember to readjust exposure compensation back down to neutral. It’s one of the easiest settings to accidentally leave on, and it’s all too common for photographers to wonder why they are consistently getting overexposed images until they remember that their exposure compensation is still set to +1.

Remember that exposure compensation is just one tool for controlling exposure. It’s important to understand the basics of exposure and how aperture, shutter speed, and ISO work together to create a properly exposed image.

How to choose metering modes on a camera

The metering mode is a camera setting that determines how the camera measures the light in the scene to determine the appropriate exposure for the image. There are typically three metering modes available on most cameras: centre-weighted, spot, and evaluative/matrix.

Centre-weighted metering: This mode measures the light in the centre of the frame and applies greater weight to this area when calculating the exposure. This mode is useful for portraits, or any situation when the subject is in the centre of the frame.

Spot metering: This mode measures the light in a small, specific area of the frame (usually in the center). This mode is useful when you want to expose for a specific part of the image, such as a person’s face.

Evaluative/matrix metering: This mode measures the light in multiple areas of the frame and calculates an average exposure. This mode is useful for most situations, as it takes into account the entire scene and provides a balanced exposure. For street, documentary and general-purpose photography, this is a good, flexible metering mode to use.

When choosing a metering mode, consider the lighting conditions of the scene and the placement of the subject. For example, if the subject is backlit, spot metering may be necessary to properly expose for the subject’s face. If the lighting is even throughout the scene, evaluative/matrix metering may be sufficient. It’s also important to keep in mind that the metering mode is just a starting point, and you may need to adjust the exposure compensation or manually adjust the settings to get the desired exposure.

Ultimately, the choice of metering mode will depend on the specific situation and your creative vision for the image. Experiment with different modes and settings to find what works best for you.

How to set white balance on your camera

White balance is an important setting in photography that ensures the colours in your images are accurate and natural-looking.

Different types of light produce different colour temperatures, measured in Kelvin (K), which denotes how warm (orange) or cool (blue) an image looks. A Kelvin number of around 5,000 is considered ‘neutral’ or natural – this is the kind of light you’d expect to see at around midday on a clear day. Some types of light produce a warm, orange cast, such as candlelight, sunrise/sunset or incandescent bulbs – these have a lower K value of around 1900 to 4000. Higher K values denote a cooler, blue colour cast, which is common on overcast, cloudy days.

By adjusting the white balance on your camera, you can ensure that image colours look consistently natural in different lighting situations.

Here’s how to set up white balance on your camera:

Navigate to the white balance setting on your camera. This may be accessed via the menu system, or your camera body may have a button labelled ‘WB’ or similar.

Choose a white balance setting. Most cameras have several white balance settings, including Auto, Daylight, Cloudy, Shade, Tungsten, Fluorescent, and Custom. In most situations, the Auto setting will do a pretty good job of getting the balance right. However, if you are consistently getting an undesirable colour cast, try selecting the option that best matches the light conditions you are shooting in.

If you want to get perfectly accurate colours, consider using a grey card. A grey card provides an accurate reference point for colour A grey card provides a completely neutral surface with no colour temperature or hue, meaning it can be used as a reference for colour temperature in any situation. Hold it in front of your subject and take a reference photo. You can now use this to calibrate your white balance – either in-camera using the ‘Custom’ setting, or in post-processing.

To adjust the white balance in post-processing, you need to shoot in RAW format, as this allows you to completely alter the colour temperature and tint of an image as you see fit. Use the white balance tool in your photo editing software to adjust the colour temperature of your image. If you have a grey card reference image, you can use this to fine-tune your adjustments, then apply these settings to other images from the same shoot.

Experiment with different settings. White balance is subjective and can vary depending on your personal preference and the mood you want to create in your image. Pay attention to the lighting conditions in your environment and adjust the white balance accordingly for the best results.

How to use burst mode

Burst mode (also known as continuous shooting mode) is a feature found on many cameras that allows you to take a series of photos in quick succession with a single press of the shutter button.

It’s hugely useful for capturing images of fast-moving subjects such as wildlife or athletes, though can also be handy when taking group photos or portraits, as you may want to capture a variety of expressions and poses.

Here are the general steps of how to use burst mode:

Set your camera to burst mode. How to do this will vary from camera to camera, but will usually involve selecting the burst mode option from the camera’s shooting mode menu.

Frame your shot and prepare to take the first photo. If your subject is moving, try to think in advance about how you may need to move the camera to keep them in frame.

Press and hold down the shutter button to start taking photos in rapid succession. The number of photos you can take will depend on your camera’s burst mode speed and buffer capacity. Some professional sports cameras have effectively unlimited buffer capacity, while others can only shoot in very short bursts.

Review your photos. After taking a burst of photos, review them on your camera’s LCD screen to see which ones turned out the best. You can then delete the photos that you don’t want to keep. This is a useful habit to get into if you are spending a day firing off lots of bursts, as you can save time in the edit by getting rid of misframes and other useless photos as you go.

Jonny Helm Tips & Tricks July 1, 2021February 7, 2024 1 Comment

Tips & Tricks | How to check your sensor at home

Dust spots on photos can lead to hours of extra editing. Sometimes there are motes of dust, oil spots, even fingerprints on a camera sensor. But how can you know before it’s too late?

Dust resting on your Mirrorless or DSLR cameras imaging sensor can show up as black spots or soft grey blobs on your images. Most frequently these UFOs (unidentified foreign objects) on the sensor show up in images with clear skies or plain backdrops when your lens is stopped down to f/8 and lower.

You can do a blue sky test but Blue skies are not always available in the UK. Luckily you can check your sensor quickly at home. Before any important assignment, project, holiday or wedding we recommend checking your sensor to see if it needs a clean. This could save you hours in editing afterwards.

Our technicians clean camera check and clean sensors every day. We asked them the best way to check for dust on an imaging sensor.

Sensor Check Kit List

Your Camera
A 50mm f1.4 lens (ideally but any standard angle lens will do)
Tracing paper or diffusion gel
BlueTak
a light source or window (do not point your camera at the sun, it can damage cameras and lenses)
Image editing software eg. Photoshop Elements

Step 1: Make a blank light source

If you have a lightbox for art, viewing slides or negatives then you are ahead of the game, you can use the lightbox.
If you don’t, you can make one easily: Just stick some tracing paper, or lighting diffusion gel to a window like below.

A simple light box: Some tracing paper stuck to a window.

Step 2: Camera Settings

We take a picture with the lens right up against our blank light source using these settings:

Lens: 50mm f1.4 or equivalent
ISO: 200
Image Quality: Jpeg
Focus Mode: Manual Focus / MF
Mode: Aperture Priority
Aperture: F/22
Exposure compensation: 0

Step 3: Take a picture

Put the lens flat against the lightbox or tracing paper, keep the camera pressed against the paper for the while exposure which might be ½ second on a gloomy day. We are making a shilouette of all the dust on our sensor. Since all the dust that affects your images is behind the lens it does not matter how your focus is set.

Keep the camera held up to the paper for the whole exposure.

Step 4: Review your image

Download your image to your computer and open your photo in an image editing software, we’re using photoshop. At first your sensor image should look like the one below. To start with the image should look grey and flat, often there is not much dust visible apart from the most serious marks. In the next step much more dust will be revealed.

Look closely some dust is already visible

Step 5: Image Adjustments – levels

Open up the histogram or levels adjustment tool (In Photoshop go to Image>Adjustments>Levels or on windows Ctrl + L, on a mac Command + L)

All the image information is in that central spike so bring the edge sliders (black point and white point) in to either side of the histogram to increase the contrast and highlight the dust.

Any dust on your sensor should appear clearly as visible black marks.

With the contrast raised the dust on the sensor is much more visible.

What to do next

Once you have identified whether or not there are marks on your sensor you will need to decide what to do next, should you clean the sensor yourself? Here are some options

Professional Sensor Cleaning

We can clean your imaging sensor in our London workshop or at our Leeds and Manchester service counters while you wait Monday to Friday. This gives you a really thorough clean not just of the sensor but of the whole camera and mirror box to reduce the risk of dust falling back onto the sensor after the clean.
Find out more about our sensor cleaning service.

DIY Sensor Cleaning

Not for the faint of heart but also not impossible. If you identify there is dust on your images in the middle of a trip then there might be no service-centre nearby. If that’s the case we collected some tips for DIY sensor cleaning in an earlier tips and tricks sensor cleaning article.

Shoot at a wider aperture

We tested the sensor above at f/22 which creates a crisp silhouette of all the dust, oil spots, etc, on the imaging sensor. If we did that test with the lens at f/2.8 much less of the dust would show up. You could test your sensor at various apertures and decide to continue shooting if they are acceptable up to say f/5.6. Also if you are shooting subjects with busy backgrounds many spots will not show up clearly enough to notice.

Ultimately you decide what is best for you and what action will suit your next set of photographs.

Jonny Helm Tips & Tricks June 22, 2021October 3, 2023 2 Comments

Tips & Tricks | Don’t live view a solar eclipse

A solar eclipse is definitely a photo-worthy event but, just like looking into the sun, pointing your camera at the sun can have damaging consequences.

After a partial eclipse we received a Canon EF 400mm f2.8 L II IS lens with an Error 01. On closer inspection the aperture blades were bent and twisted. We have treated sun-damaged cameras in the past but this time the lens was damaged. We called the photographer to find out what had happened.

To protect their eyes the photographer had decided to use Live-View to get the sun in frame and wait for the right moment for the exposure. To cut the amount of light reaching the CMOS imaging sensor the lens was stopped right down to f/22.

In live view shooting the aperture stops down as you change the setting, so when f/22 is set the aperture blades close and stay closed while you view the image on the rear monitor.

The lens was pointing at the sun for approximately 2 minutes with the aperture stopped down and absorbing most of the light. This was enough to heat and warp the thin aperture blades in a way that we had never seen before in our workshop.

Luckily it was the aperture mechanism alone that was damaged and our technicians were able to replace that with a new part from Canon for under £300. The lens is otherwise in full working order however this repair could have been avoided.

How to photograph the sun

First we must stress that you should never look directly at the sun through lenses, cameras or optics. Doing so could cause permanent damage to your eyes. Even the filters below are for photographing the sun and are designed to protect electronic equipment, not eyes.

Tip 1: Use a solar-filter

Lenses with filter threads: Use a Lee or screw-in solar filter. Unlike ND filters, specially made solar filters block UV and Infra-red light as well as the visible spectrum. This protects your lens and camera from a much wider range the radiation that could otherwise damage your lens and sensor.

Telephoto lenses: use Solar Foil. Large aperture telephoto lenses like the 400mm above do not have filter threads at the front of the lens. Solar foil comes in A4 sheets which can be fitted over the front element or lens-hood of a super-telephoto lens.

Tip 2: Keep your lens covered

Once your image is composed, use a lens cap to stop all light entering your lens until you are ready to shoot. This keeps your lens and camera cool and able to function better when it comes to making the exposure.

If you have any questions about shooting difficult subjects or in unusual environments we have decades of experience supporting photographers working around the world and are happy to help.

Jonny Helm Tips & Tricks April 23, 2018October 6, 2023 0 Comments

Tips & Tricks | Watch out for frayed straps

Most cameras, especially professional and enthusiast models, come supplied with a camera strap. A camera strap isn’t something you spend too much time thinking about; they’re usually attached the day you get your camera and promptly forgotten.

The main benefit of using a camera strap is that you don’t have to keep holding the camera with your hands. You can your hands for other things, while the camera hangs safely from the strap. However if you’re in the habit of carrying a couple of bodies over your shoulder, chances are your straps will have become twisted at some point and camera straps can be quite annoying when placing your camera back into a camera bag. The strap often needs to be carefully folded and if it’s not, it can become twisted. This, in turn, can often lead to fraying – and a frayed strap is one that can let you down when you least expect.

This is something our technicians see every week when cameras are brought in for servicing or sensor cleaning.

Many customers buying new cameras struggle to fit their straps in the correct way to ensure they won`t come undone. We are always happy to fit straps for you, even if you haven’t bought the equipment from us. We might be a company that earns our living repairing equipment, but we hate seeing a customer who hasn’t fitted their strap correctly, and it has slipped or come undone and damaged a camera or lens.

A camera strap can act like a failsafe. In the unfortunate event that you drop your camera, the strap will prevent it from falling to the floor. While you should always aim to keep a good grip on your camera, in busy areas such as city centers or crowded train platforms, you can easily take an unexpected knock and lose your grip. A camera strap helps in these situations, and also provides protection from opportunistic thieves.

However, straps can break. Depending on the strap, there may be multiple points of possible failure. Some use a split ring between the camera strap lugs and the strap itself. The split in the split ring may be widened through use, causing either the strap to come off the ring or the ring to come off the camera. A strap can also work its way backwards through the slider and come loose. Stitching on straps can break, as can the actual material from which they are constructed.

Replacement straps are not expensive – certainly less than the cost of repairing or replacing your kit if the strap gives way! We sell genuine straps from Canon, Nikon and Sony, and many of the major manufacturers make stronger straps that are specifically designed for telephoto lenses. This is useful if you are habitually kitting yourself out with a heavier setup!

It’s important to get your strap from a trusted manufacturer, as this will ensure you’re getting a quality product. We stock reputable strap-makers like Think Tank, Domke, Black Rapid and Op-Tech, all of whom produce fantastic all-weather straps.

We’ve also picked out a few great straps and strap accessories you might not have heard of! These are a great way to give your camera some additional protection.

The Activity Clip Strap Locker cоmрlеtеlу lосkѕ уоur саmеrа tо уоur bоdу whеn уоu аrе runnіng, bіkіng оr сlіmbing а mоuntаіn.

The Activity Clip Strap Locker keeps the camera locked in perfect position when needed.

The Rotaball-Strap-Surfer is dеѕіgnеd fоr mіrrоrlеѕѕ аnd ѕmаll саmеrаѕ, and it аllоwѕ уоu tо аttасh уоur саmеrа tо уоur сrоѕѕ-bоdу bаg оr bасkрасk. Іt іѕ сараblе оf hоldіng саmеrаѕ thаt wеіgh uр tо 5kg, аnd includes the Rоtаbаll Ѕаfеtу Соnnесtоr, whісh аllоwѕ уоur саmеrа tо ѕріn 360° frееlу. This also includes thе nеw Вlоkkеr, a failsafe device to рrеvеnt уоur саmеrа frоm bесоmіng unѕсrеwеd.

Dеѕіgnеd fоr mіrrоrlеѕѕ аnd ѕmаll саmеrаѕ, thе Ѕun-Ѕnіреr Тhе Rоtаbаll-Ѕtrар-Ѕurfеr аllоwѕ уоu tо аttасh уоur саmеrа tо уоur сrоѕѕ-bоdу bаg оr bасkрасk

The SpiderPro Leather Hand Strap has been rеdеѕіgnеd tо рrоvіdе ultіmаtе соmfоrt аnd frееdоm оf mоvеmеnt. Іt’ѕ соmраtіblе wіth аll trіроd рlаtеѕ but іf уоu dоn’t hаvе оnе, nо mаttеr; thе kіt соmеѕ wіth раrtѕ thаt аllоw for uѕе wіthоut а рlаte

For use with both Mirrorless and DSLR cameras

The Underarm Strap frоm Ѕun-Ѕnіреr is dеѕіgnеd tо kеер уоur саmеrа ѕtrар аnd ѕhоuldеr раd ѕесurеlу іn рlасе, еvеn іn thе mоѕt ехtrеmе оf сіrсumѕtаnсеѕ. It’s cоmраtіblе wіth mаnу ѕtrарѕ аnd brаndѕ.

Designed to keep your camera strap and shoulder pad securely in place even in the most extreme of circumstances.

Many Fixation customers love Peak Design straps because they are versatile, very strong and simple to use. Often when photographers collect their new gear, they will choose these over the straps supplied by the manufacturer, and we keep them in stock for this reason.

If there’s one thing to remember from this blog, it’s this: always check your camera’s anchor points when you have your gear attached to a strap. Replacing a fraying anchor or even a whole strap is not a huge expense, but replacing or repairing your camera body or lens almost certainly will be. So check, and check again!

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Category Archives: Tips & Tricks